Today we visited the biggest outdoor destination in Nuremburg, the Kaiserburg. Construction seems to have begun in AD 1050, making this structure nearly 1000 years old! The Kaiserburg is one of many castles spread throughout Bavaria, which the Kaiser would use as homes and to meet with various dignitaries. The main purpose of this castle (besides the obvious protection it affords), and one of the key symbolic reasons Adolf Hitler was so attracted to Nuremberg, was communication with the Holy Roman Empire, otherwise known as Byzantium. The Bavarian Empire and the HRE were the two biggest powers in the region following the fall of the Roman Empire, and the central location and security of this castle made it an ideal meeting place for the rulers of both.
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Looking up at the Kaiserburg from the bridge that spans the moat. The moat itself was not filled with water; it was simply an extremely deep ditch that an army couldn't cross without being cut down by archers. |
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Yet another picture of St. Lorenz cathedral, this time from the outer battlements of the castle. It's a nice view, but nowhere near what's to follow. |
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On the side of the river closer to the Kaiserburg stands St. Sebold cathedral. |
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This is the biggest Catholic church in Nuremburg, St. Elizabeth cathedral. |
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Looking up from the battlements at the many buildings contained within the castle. Remember that castles were designed to withstand sieges; these buildings would provide all the support of an entire city to the Kaiser if he were attacked here. Everything produced by the serfs elsewhere could be produced by the same serfs in limited quantities here: meat, wood, stone, milk, water, armor, livestock, and weapons could all be obtained within the castle's walls. |
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The main courtyard. |
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The rear of the castle, where chambers for the women and attendant lords once stood, is now a small museum of weapons and armor that would have been found in this castle. Most of the swords have been almost entirely consumed by rust, but some of the more recent items are in incredible condition for their age. |
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Various halberds. Each of these fearsome polearms is half again as tall as a man; they were designed not for offence against infantry but defense against cavalry, and so needed to be long enough that a knight (or his horse, for that matter) couldn't attack the user without being dismounted or killed outright. |
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This is rider armor. It's noticeably lighter duty than the previous article. |
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I can't seem to stay away from churches! This is the chapel within the castle. |
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I laughed when I saw this.
"Have we got bows?"
"No."
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"We have the Holy Hand Grenade!"
"Of course! The Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch!" |
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These figures, like the evident Monty Python fans above, have nothing to do with the Bible, unlike the figures in the other cathedrals. Rather they depict Kaisers and Empresses who have lived here. |
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There are exceptions, of course, like this incredible life-size Madonna. |
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The chapel has an impressive pit below it with what appear to be other pews. I didn't catch enough of the German to understand what it was for, but I suspect it was a place of worship for the lower members of the Imperial entourage. |
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The entire chapel. It's all original, except, of course, the iron fence around the pit. |
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This ornately carved device seemed to appear in every room. It wasn't explained, but my guess based on the dimensions and ubiquity is that it's some kind of furnace. Even if you're the Kaiser, it's still cold in Bavaria. |
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In all the rooms of the castle, the ceiling is ornately painted. The shields held by the famous two-headed eagles represent the member states of the Bavarian Empire. |
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This map shows the extent of said Empire at its peak. It's a pretty impressive territory. |
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The color scheme of the Eagle is oddly reversed in the Kaiser's anteroom. Apparently, this particular ceiling is rather famous. |
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Water and the slow passage of time destroyed what was one a beautiful fresco on the far wall of the anteroom. The under-painting has been restored. |
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Americans tend to think of Baroque styling as lavish. They're right. |
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Many people who bore the title of Kaiser sat at this table. |
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The Kaiser's bedroom is restored except for the bed (?), and this beautiful tapestry is the centerpiece. It exemplifies the Medieval Period in art, with realistically-proportioned figures frozen in time mid-action. Notice how frontal they all are: it's a characteristic of developing art style...even though the Greeks already knew how to do it right a thousand years before. |
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The courtyard, taken from an overlooking passage. |
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The symmetry between the stairs and the building on the left was striking enough to warrant a photo. The counter-symmetry of the walkway and the groundedness of the tower further enhance the view. |
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The best photo of the day, showcasing the Kaiserburg's most famous tower , balanced by a perfect blue sky and a half-timber house. The trees add a balancing touch of the natural. |
As said before, a castle needs an economy, just like a city. This well, which is 37 meters deep, supplied vital infrastructure.
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A stunning view of the city, showing both cathedrals as well as city hall, taken from the top of the above tower. It was a lot of steps, but it was definitely worth it. Still, my legs hurt a lot after walking all through and around the castle, up and down this tower, through the shopping district of Nuremburg, and about a mile back to the cat. |
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The irony of the modern glass building next to the traditional Bavarian half-timber houses was irresistible. |
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The whole inner castle, as seen from the top of the tower. Interestingly, an archer in this tower would not have the line of sight needed to take down an enemy in the courtyard, so if they get that far, the Kaiser's on his own! |
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The most obvious anachronism here, the unified German flag only came to be in the late 19th Century. |
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Appropriately, this Bavarian flag is much more prominent than the German one and would, in fact, have been flown from this castle. |
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The view from the tower was good enough to make out the airport far in the distance. Behind it (though I would never have known this without being told so) is the Nuremberg Tiergarten, which I am told is a very impressive zoo. |
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Although this city was mostly obliterated during World War II, it has nevertheless been rebuilt to its prewar splendor. And when something couldn't be rebuilt, something more useful was built in its place -- just as these resourceful ducks used a fallen tree as a base for a nest safe from most predators. |
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The most famous fountain in Nuremberg. The artwork is good, but the themes presented are rather depressing. And yes, that's corn. |
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The only picture I had time to take during a brief visit to the Germanisches Nationalmuseum. Think of it as a teaser for what's to come tomorrow! |
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And finally, the main reason I wanted to go to the shopping district. Love you, Dad! |
German Word of the Day / Deutsches Wort des Tages
der Schloss :: Castle
Schloss Neuschwanstein ist der beruehmste in der Welt.
Neuschwanstein Castle is the most famous in the world.
G&G Butler said:
ReplyDeleteThe pictures are amazing, and we love your commentary. Feels like we are there with you and you are translating the German for us. You and the trip are fantastic!!!
Hey, Kirk, I thought you said you don't take as many pictures as I do--I think you now have me beat! And yours are all really well done. I also liked your video. Nuremburg looks like a fantastic city and I love the tour you gave us of the Kaiserburg. You mentioned Neuschwanstein--I really hope you get to go there; Ludwig's place will blow you away! As for all the churches, well, you'll never get away from them in Europe...
ReplyDeleteContinue to have the fantastic time you apparently are having....
Love, Grandmom Butler
Ah! Vielen dank fürs Buch! Du tust gute Arbeit an deinem Blog--sehr nett. Bitte nimmst du einige Fotos von deiner Familie und ihr Haus.
ReplyDeleteVeröffentlichung der heiligen Handgranate!!
Kirk, fabulous job! I bet you LOVED the armory!! Sorry your legs hurt, but it must have to worth it! I loved the Python references, too!! Are you going to see more castles? Hey, make sure you sample a glass of milk. Dad said he had the best milk he's ever had while in Germany!
ReplyDeleteHey Kirk-
ReplyDeleteIt looks like you are having a great time.
Patrick wanted to tell you that he got a 3DS for his birthday and he can't wait to show it to you.
Aunt Pam